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Porters ‘Reserve’ Martinborough Pinot Noir 2009

Recent review from Raymond Chan Wine Reviews.

Although Porters Pinot is one of the smallest commercial Martinborough wine producers, it is an enduring one, now in its 22nd year. Proprietor John Porter is a hands-on winegrower and winemaker, when not at his legal firm in Wellington, and he has developed a more elegant and ethereal style of Pinot Noir that suits his 6.4 ha of vines. Those who appreciate the likes of Volnay and Chambolle-Musigny will be in a good position to understand the Porters Pinot which is markedly different to most from the district. In 2009, John made his first ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir, much bigger than what is normally made, the wine reflecting the vintage (click here to see my review). In the cooler 2012 vintage, John made his second ‘Reserve’ wine, and this is a wine of “elegance rather than brute force” according to him, the wine more his ‘house style’. While so, I find it has real depth and concentration. Here is my review of the wine.

18.5/20

Even, garnet-red colour, with pale brick-orange hues on rim. This has an elegantly proportioned, intense nose with concentrated red berry fruits intricately interwoven with aromas of herbs, mineral and earth. With aeration an intriguing array of complex, savoury meat, spice, oak and cedar aromatics unfold, the bouquet growing in depth. Medium-full bodied, a tightly packed core of savoury and spicy red berry fruits is the feature, showing with richness and sweetness. Layers of earth, game, spices, meat and cedar unfold providing great interest and detail. The fruit is supported by fine-grained tannins and fresh, lacy acidity. The mouthfeel is elegant, but concentrated, with real vitality, freshness and energy, and the wine carries through to a very long, lingering finish of red fruits, spices and game. This is an elegantly concentrated, complex and detailed Pinot Noir with a full and lively array of savoury red fruit, spices, game and cedar. Serve with casseroles, duck and lamb dishes over the next 6-7+ years. Hand-picked fruit from the older vines, nearly 20 y.o., clones 10/5, Abel and some 5, fully destemmed and 85% indigenous yeast fermented to 13.8% alc., the wine spending 20 days on skins and aged 9 months in 30% new Francois Freres oak. 18.5/20 Jul 2014 RRP $75.00

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